Keeshond Grooming
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Keeshond Grooming
We have no excuse .... I don't mean to sound like a terrible doggie parent but we let his coat go for a bit without regularly grooming. I have now tried brushing but have not been very succesful in getting the knots out of his undercoat. I don't want to give him a doggie cut in the winter. Is there a better tool other than the wire brush I have been working with him daily to try to undo what we let go for too long? Our Keeshond (Buddy) is 1 1/2 yrs old. I don't remember his coat being this bad when he was younger. He HATES the hind quarter grooming but that's where he needs it most and now the collar is seems to be bunching up the fur around his neck. Any ideas?
Re: Keeshond Grooming
The collar isn't too small and attaching itself to the neck skin, right? You might look into a grooming rake and/or dematting comb to help you deal with mats, but if he is severely matted, a haircut might be the best (and kindest way) to get rid of the mats. I would strive for combing him out daily; the coats that are brushed regularly create better airflow and promote healthier skin. Hopefully, an expert can help you and Buddy get desensitized to the grooming process.
Re: Keeshond Grooming
No, he has a good bit of room with his collar. He has even slipped out of it once or twice...we try to keep checking on it with the hair growing back from when we cut it in September. I am not sure what a "rake" is so will have to check that out...someone in dog training class had given me some sort of tool that is a flat piece of metal bent with trianglular looking edges that she told me works great with her husky malting but I never asked how the heck to use the thing. I never thought of a comb, maybe that is better than the wire brush digging I have been doing. I just hate to cut his hair again when it's sooo cold out....I am sure that undercoat has plenty to protect him though. Thanks for the info.
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Fundog
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Re: Keeshond Grooming
One of the hallmark traits of the Keeshond breed is the "corded" coat-- in other words, it looks matted, but really isn't--- rather, that is the way it is supposed to look. 
As long as it is clean and free of debris, such as dirt and twigs and such, it is fine. You aren't supposed to brush out the "dreadlocks." You could trim up the bit around his neck, if you need to, with a pair of scissors or clippers, where his collar needs to go, but otherwise, leave his "cords" alone. That is how he's supposed to look. Pretend he's Rastafarian. 
As long as it is clean and free of debris, such as dirt and twigs and such, it is fine. You aren't supposed to brush out the "dreadlocks." You could trim up the bit around his neck, if you need to, with a pair of scissors or clippers, where his collar needs to go, but otherwise, leave his "cords" alone. That is how he's supposed to look. Pretend he's Rastafarian. If an opportunity comes to you in life, say yes first, even if you don't know how to do it.
Re: Keeshond Grooming
Really?
When you say Keeshond, you mean this, right?
When you say "corded", a Puli comes to mind because they are known for the "corded" (a very specific way of grooming) look:
When you say Keeshond, you mean this, right?
When you say "corded", a Puli comes to mind because they are known for the "corded" (a very specific way of grooming) look:
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Fundog
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Re: Keeshond Grooming
Oops-- I was thinking of the Komondor-- my bad. 
In the case of the real dog in question, I would recommend starting off with a pick comb-- it has long metal tines and kind of resembles a fork-- (remember what we used to "tease" our hair with in the 80's?) The steel tines, used properly, can help to work the mats out and lift the undercoat, preparing the coat for a finer brush. You may need to graduate through several different types of combs and brushes, as you make progress. There is no one comb or brush that is going to be suitable to complete the entire task from beginning to end. Also, you will need to give the dog several very short sessions and lots of breaks, with plenty of treats and praise before, during, and after each session. You are not going to be able to get him all "done" in one day. Rather, you will see a huge improvement over a month's time, doing two or three short grooming sessions every day. Each day, start off by going over what you accomplished the day before, as it will be easier and less unpleasant, so he will tolerate a little bit longer session each day. If you start off with a new spot, then he will lose patience before you can repeat brushing a spot you've already done-- hence it will get matted again, and you will not make any progress.
Once you get Buddy all de-matted and back to his gorgeous self, he will only require a pleasant 15 minute brushing every day. My girls have long, feathered coats, prone to matting. My son brushes/combs them Every. Single. Day. It only takes him between five and fifteen minutes each day, depending upon how much time he feels like preening them, and how much they are enjoying it. He has been keeping them mat-free and gorgeous for several years now. The daily brushing/combing out also helps to bring up the undercoat and reduce skin problems.
In the case of the real dog in question, I would recommend starting off with a pick comb-- it has long metal tines and kind of resembles a fork-- (remember what we used to "tease" our hair with in the 80's?) The steel tines, used properly, can help to work the mats out and lift the undercoat, preparing the coat for a finer brush. You may need to graduate through several different types of combs and brushes, as you make progress. There is no one comb or brush that is going to be suitable to complete the entire task from beginning to end. Also, you will need to give the dog several very short sessions and lots of breaks, with plenty of treats and praise before, during, and after each session. You are not going to be able to get him all "done" in one day. Rather, you will see a huge improvement over a month's time, doing two or three short grooming sessions every day. Each day, start off by going over what you accomplished the day before, as it will be easier and less unpleasant, so he will tolerate a little bit longer session each day. If you start off with a new spot, then he will lose patience before you can repeat brushing a spot you've already done-- hence it will get matted again, and you will not make any progress.
Once you get Buddy all de-matted and back to his gorgeous self, he will only require a pleasant 15 minute brushing every day. My girls have long, feathered coats, prone to matting. My son brushes/combs them Every. Single. Day. It only takes him between five and fifteen minutes each day, depending upon how much time he feels like preening them, and how much they are enjoying it. He has been keeping them mat-free and gorgeous for several years now. The daily brushing/combing out also helps to bring up the undercoat and reduce skin problems.
If an opportunity comes to you in life, say yes first, even if you don't know how to do it.
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Horace's Mum
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Re: Keeshond Grooming
I had to go and see what a komondor looked like, and I found this picture. Love it!!
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h ... CB4Q9QEwAg
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h ... CB4Q9QEwAg
Re: Keeshond Grooming
Isnt that the same dog (same sequence of photos) that was the album art for the Beck album, 'Odelay'.......
Er, sorry - random trivia there!
Back to the OP - you will never get down to the skin and de-matt using a wire or slicker brush (if that is what you mean by a wire brush), y ou need a pin brush, with no bobbles on the ends of the pins, and a comb, preferably one with two lengths of tooth on it.
Lie the dog on his or her side, and have to hand a grooming spray, detangling spray, baby oil if you have none of these things - if you are going to (and i would) bath the dog immediately afterwards then diluted conditioner (not too dilute) in a spray bottle would do too.
Part the coat as low down the side of the dog as you can and push up the rest of the coat - you mgith want someone to help you with this (with my Tibetan terrier i can use a sectioning clip like a hairdresser would but i suspect you cant do that), so that you can see the skin above the section youw ill be combing.
Feel for any knots then give it a good squirt with the detangler./groomingspray/drizzle of oil and hold the mat with your fingers between the mat and the skin (or just hold the mat, the idea is your fingers take the strain not his skin, and useing a comb unpick the mat. When its unpicked, brush through with the pin brush, then with the slicker.
Take the next section, working from teh belly up to the spine (but unpicking/brushing in the direction of coat growth) and repeat the above until you have done the whole side of the dog, then do the other side!
You can get special slickers that will help with looser tangles but in my experience 'to the skin' mats will not be gotten out even with the most expensive long pin slicker, they need something to loosen them, and then unpicking carefully.
Once you have a clean, dry , de-matted dog, make a point of weekly doing a full brush through with the dog on his side, checking at each sectiont hat you can see the skin, a nd then hopefully you wont have to do this again.
I would avoid like the PLAGUE having a Keeshond clippered or scissored - shortening a double, stand off coat like that with clippers is liable to cause serious matting and loss of coat texture and you will have serious problems getting it back to how it should look.
Too keep a dog cool in summer, bearing in mind that NO dog is designed to be out i the midday sun!!! (hence the poem about mad dogs and englishmen!), a thorough grooming removing dead undercoat will do FAR more good than a haircut, as these double coats insulate really well, keeping OUT the heat and IN the warmth as appropriate.
Er, sorry - random trivia there!
Back to the OP - you will never get down to the skin and de-matt using a wire or slicker brush (if that is what you mean by a wire brush), y ou need a pin brush, with no bobbles on the ends of the pins, and a comb, preferably one with two lengths of tooth on it.
Lie the dog on his or her side, and have to hand a grooming spray, detangling spray, baby oil if you have none of these things - if you are going to (and i would) bath the dog immediately afterwards then diluted conditioner (not too dilute) in a spray bottle would do too.
Part the coat as low down the side of the dog as you can and push up the rest of the coat - you mgith want someone to help you with this (with my Tibetan terrier i can use a sectioning clip like a hairdresser would but i suspect you cant do that), so that you can see the skin above the section youw ill be combing.
Feel for any knots then give it a good squirt with the detangler./groomingspray/drizzle of oil and hold the mat with your fingers between the mat and the skin (or just hold the mat, the idea is your fingers take the strain not his skin, and useing a comb unpick the mat. When its unpicked, brush through with the pin brush, then with the slicker.
Take the next section, working from teh belly up to the spine (but unpicking/brushing in the direction of coat growth) and repeat the above until you have done the whole side of the dog, then do the other side!
You can get special slickers that will help with looser tangles but in my experience 'to the skin' mats will not be gotten out even with the most expensive long pin slicker, they need something to loosen them, and then unpicking carefully.
Once you have a clean, dry , de-matted dog, make a point of weekly doing a full brush through with the dog on his side, checking at each sectiont hat you can see the skin, a nd then hopefully you wont have to do this again.
I would avoid like the PLAGUE having a Keeshond clippered or scissored - shortening a double, stand off coat like that with clippers is liable to cause serious matting and loss of coat texture and you will have serious problems getting it back to how it should look.
Too keep a dog cool in summer, bearing in mind that NO dog is designed to be out i the midday sun!!! (hence the poem about mad dogs and englishmen!), a thorough grooming removing dead undercoat will do FAR more good than a haircut, as these double coats insulate really well, keeping OUT the heat and IN the warmth as appropriate.
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