I was wondering if you cannot get your dog's attention as he or she is fixated on something like another dog . Can you body block your dog to get his attention. Its not when you meet another dog, but when they might be looking iut the door?
Thanks,
Jennie
cannot get dogs attention
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wheelingurl
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I believe I saw Victoria do it on Its Me or The Dog in the american show. I believe she said that it was better to body block than go for the colar. I just want to use it to regain eye contact if my dogs go barking crazy. Can I just do about face without saying a word to them so that barking isn't rewarded, or am I rewarding by removing them?
Thanks,
jennie
Thanks,
jennie
Hey there! I am not a trainer nor do I pretend to be!
With my own dogs however I have learned to get them to focus on me I have to be more fun and exciting than what they are fixed on.
Could you give a few more details on your pups and what it is your trying to get them to not focus on and what you have already tried?
With more information I am sure people could help you better.
I have a puppy who is a bit mouthy and we are trying to break that habit. Victoria had a great show on a Husky that was out of control. She used a loud horn whenever he would jump or get mouthy. The horn worked WONDERFUL for the husky but would be like killing the chicken with a bazooka for my own puppy. What will work for 1 dog does not work for all dogs!
Is your dog in guard mode at the door? Are they watching things go by in a prey manner? Is it an OCD type of thing? Does it seem more like anything is more fun and exciting than boring old mom?
Victoria has a show with a gordon setter that had OCD. I can't remember the name of the dog but it was a wonderful show on how to get your dogs' attention when they are completely transfixed on something.
In the US show she was using body blocking as a way for the boxer to feel more secure along with breaking the eye stare. Some dogs do great with this while others will only look around your body to refix their stare!
Sometimes simply opening up the dog cookie jar or running a can opener or opening up their kibble is enough to get a dog's attention! You don't want to START with the most aggressive treatments... try other things first before forcing the dog with a body block to look at you. I find (again I am not a trainer) it much more rewarding when they choose to focus on me rather than being made to focus ... same goes for my 2 legged kids!
As the whole point of the body block is to break a stare I am going to guess you can use it for barking at the door kind of behavior but I would try a few other things first such as being more fun and exciting that what's going on outside.
With my own dogs however I have learned to get them to focus on me I have to be more fun and exciting than what they are fixed on.
Could you give a few more details on your pups and what it is your trying to get them to not focus on and what you have already tried?
With more information I am sure people could help you better.
I have a puppy who is a bit mouthy and we are trying to break that habit. Victoria had a great show on a Husky that was out of control. She used a loud horn whenever he would jump or get mouthy. The horn worked WONDERFUL for the husky but would be like killing the chicken with a bazooka for my own puppy. What will work for 1 dog does not work for all dogs!
Is your dog in guard mode at the door? Are they watching things go by in a prey manner? Is it an OCD type of thing? Does it seem more like anything is more fun and exciting than boring old mom?
Victoria has a show with a gordon setter that had OCD. I can't remember the name of the dog but it was a wonderful show on how to get your dogs' attention when they are completely transfixed on something.
In the US show she was using body blocking as a way for the boxer to feel more secure along with breaking the eye stare. Some dogs do great with this while others will only look around your body to refix their stare!
Sometimes simply opening up the dog cookie jar or running a can opener or opening up their kibble is enough to get a dog's attention! You don't want to START with the most aggressive treatments... try other things first before forcing the dog with a body block to look at you. I find (again I am not a trainer) it much more rewarding when they choose to focus on me rather than being made to focus ... same goes for my 2 legged kids!
As the whole point of the body block is to break a stare I am going to guess you can use it for barking at the door kind of behavior but I would try a few other things first such as being more fun and exciting that what's going on outside.
Body blocking is one method that can be used. All body blocking is you place your body to block the dog's line of vision to what they are fixated upon.
Body blocking is about controlling space. Its useful for training stays. If you see your dog about to move, moving your body towards the spot your dog is trying to move will cause him to hold position.
Body blocking is also useful when dealing with rude dogs at the dog park who com charging up to your dog. Basically move yourself in front of your dog, this forces the oncoming dogs to either slow their approach, or approach on a curve to go around you which is much more polite from your dog's perspective.
Other methods can be sound aversion, or ensuring your reward is much more valuable than the object the dog is fixated upon.
Body blocking is about controlling space. Its useful for training stays. If you see your dog about to move, moving your body towards the spot your dog is trying to move will cause him to hold position.
Body blocking is also useful when dealing with rude dogs at the dog park who com charging up to your dog. Basically move yourself in front of your dog, this forces the oncoming dogs to either slow their approach, or approach on a curve to go around you which is much more polite from your dog's perspective.
Other methods can be sound aversion, or ensuring your reward is much more valuable than the object the dog is fixated upon.
Re: cannot get dogs attention
Thanks ckranz, I have seen people physically push dogs with their bodies when the dog is fixed onto something, doesn't work either, the dog is still fixed onto it but in a different position.
If I know that my dog is going to fix onto something I try to get her attention before she does with "Watch me", this isn't always possible so I use my voice to distract her or sometimes lightly put my hand on her back, maybe give a stroke or 2. My Collie cross is the worst for this, she has the Collie eye but I can still break it by either my voice or touch.
Jenny, can you give us more information on this please? Were it is, at home or when out, what her body language is like when she is doing it etc.wheelingurl wrote:I was wondering if you cannot get your dog's attention as he or she is fixated on something like another dog . Can you body block your dog to get his attention. Its not when you meet another dog, but when they might be looking iut the door?
Thanks,
Jennie
If I know that my dog is going to fix onto something I try to get her attention before she does with "Watch me", this isn't always possible so I use my voice to distract her or sometimes lightly put my hand on her back, maybe give a stroke or 2. My Collie cross is the worst for this, she has the Collie eye but I can still break it by either my voice or touch.
[url=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Nethertumbleweed/PIXIE.jpg][img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Nethertumbleweed/th_PIXIE.jpg[/img][/url]
It might be easier to do an about face rather than the body block if you aren't sure of the timing, especially if you have more than one dog with the same problem. I really wouldn't worry about keeping eye contact with them. The best way is to get help from a friend with a calm dog who can walk around in a fixed area while you walk your dogs toward them. Turn around and walk away every time your dogs start to pull and bark. It might take 50 times but they will figure out that barking gets them nowhere, and eventually you can get closer and closer. It also might be easier to work on this with one of your dogs at a time.wheelingurl wrote:I believe I saw Victoria do it on Its Me or The Dog in the american show. I believe she said that it was better to body block than go for the colar. I just want to use it to regain eye contact if my dogs go barking crazy. Can I just do about face without saying a word to them so that barking isn't rewarded, or am I rewarding by removing them?
Thanks,
jennie
Gershep1, like you I thought it was when out walking her dog but this confused me so now I don't really know were she and the dog is.
Its not when you meet another dog, but when they might be looking iut the door?
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I do a couple of things here. Sorry, but I am copy/pasting them from my homework sheet:
1)The Name Game: Put a treat in the dog’s mouth. As the food touches the dog’s tongue, say the dog’s name, whether the dog is looking at you or not. The dog does not need to be doing anything in particular. Do this many times throughout the day, using different intonations, locations and treats. Your goal is 5000 repitions. This activity is relevant to three issues: name recognition, attention and recall
3)Focus: Show the dog a treat in your hand, then hold the treat out at shoulder level. Wait for the dog to look at you and click and treat the instant the dog makes eye contact. Try this with your other hand, with a treat in both hands. Slowly increase the duration of the eye contact before the click.
2)Targeting: Present your open palm or pointed finger close to the dog’s face, just below the nose and off to the side. Keep them still. When the dog turns his head and touches you palm/finger, click and treat. When the dog is doing this reliably, slowly begin moving your hand/finger further away.
I start these things in a place where there are no distractions and build them.
When you start using them around other dogs, you want to start at a non reactive distance and slowly, over time, shorten that distance.
Name recognition will help you draw your dog's attention back to you. Focus is the cue from which all else builds and targeting gives your dog an appropriate alternative behavior to perform.
Of course, it is notr as easy as that, you really do need to slowly work through an issue like this and habituate your dog to other dogs. I just use the above as ways to start that process.
1)The Name Game: Put a treat in the dog’s mouth. As the food touches the dog’s tongue, say the dog’s name, whether the dog is looking at you or not. The dog does not need to be doing anything in particular. Do this many times throughout the day, using different intonations, locations and treats. Your goal is 5000 repitions. This activity is relevant to three issues: name recognition, attention and recall
3)Focus: Show the dog a treat in your hand, then hold the treat out at shoulder level. Wait for the dog to look at you and click and treat the instant the dog makes eye contact. Try this with your other hand, with a treat in both hands. Slowly increase the duration of the eye contact before the click.
2)Targeting: Present your open palm or pointed finger close to the dog’s face, just below the nose and off to the side. Keep them still. When the dog turns his head and touches you palm/finger, click and treat. When the dog is doing this reliably, slowly begin moving your hand/finger further away.
I start these things in a place where there are no distractions and build them.
When you start using them around other dogs, you want to start at a non reactive distance and slowly, over time, shorten that distance.
Name recognition will help you draw your dog's attention back to you. Focus is the cue from which all else builds and targeting gives your dog an appropriate alternative behavior to perform.
Of course, it is notr as easy as that, you really do need to slowly work through an issue like this and habituate your dog to other dogs. I just use the above as ways to start that process.
Kim and Asher
“He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotionâ€
“He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotionâ€
My miniature schnauzer (as purebred as they come, therefore will an overflowing complement of stubbornness, tenacity, and fixation) had a serious problem with this for a long time. He is completely non-aggressive, but would get tunnel-visioned whenever he saw another dog across the park. He wanted to go play with them, and when he couldn't (thank you, lead!) he would stop and stare, and completely ignore me.
He still does it from time to time with birds and children, but now that I've perfected my little attention-grabbing trick, it's easy peasy to fix.
I started taking an awesome tug-squeak toy with us on walks. He ONLY gets to play with that particular toy when we're outside, so he is absolutely ecstatic whenever we head out. Since it squeaks, and he loves it so dearly, I started using it to snap his attention away from whatever he was fixated on. One or two squeaks, and he completely forgot the object of his fixation, and wanted to play with the toy instead.
It's a super-simple trick, but you have to be sure to use a toy that you only allow your dog to play with when on walks. Otherwise, there's nothing overly special about it, and he won't feel the need to take advantage of the squeak.
He still does it from time to time with birds and children, but now that I've perfected my little attention-grabbing trick, it's easy peasy to fix.
I started taking an awesome tug-squeak toy with us on walks. He ONLY gets to play with that particular toy when we're outside, so he is absolutely ecstatic whenever we head out. Since it squeaks, and he loves it so dearly, I started using it to snap his attention away from whatever he was fixated on. One or two squeaks, and he completely forgot the object of his fixation, and wanted to play with the toy instead.
It's a super-simple trick, but you have to be sure to use a toy that you only allow your dog to play with when on walks. Otherwise, there's nothing overly special about it, and he won't feel the need to take advantage of the squeak.
I have a prey obsessed dog and I use "look at me" and "follow me"
I start in a low distraction environment and hold a treat up in front of my face, and say "look at me" and then give her a treat (from my other hand, usually a much higher value treat) when I can quit using the lure I fade the treats. When she can see a cat (we're still not to where Sydney can be in the same room as a cat so we practice this in the kennel, with the cat safely outside of the kennel but where she has a direct line of sight.) I say "look at me" bring my hand up to my face, and when she looks right away (and only right away) she gets an extremely high value treat-- the one thing she wants more than a cat or squirrel that she can't get to is pork-lung that she can get.
"Follow me" is much the same, I make the same movement (hand to my face) but at the same time I step back-- her natural reaction is to look at my face and hand, and take a step in the same direction (this positions her so that she's not directly facing the cat or squirrel.)
For a fear/aggression situation I'd modify the training somewhat, stay with the initial command training in a low distraction environment, and introduce new and unusual distractions to acclimate to before bringing another dog into the picture, upping the distraction level progressively and avoiding the source of the fear if at all possible until this dog could look at you on command, and follow you on command even if it started raining liver and tripe from the skies. Then I'd drop the distractions way down and start attempting to acclimate the dog to the fear source (have a friend walk another dog past from a distance.)
I start in a low distraction environment and hold a treat up in front of my face, and say "look at me" and then give her a treat (from my other hand, usually a much higher value treat) when I can quit using the lure I fade the treats. When she can see a cat (we're still not to where Sydney can be in the same room as a cat so we practice this in the kennel, with the cat safely outside of the kennel but where she has a direct line of sight.) I say "look at me" bring my hand up to my face, and when she looks right away (and only right away) she gets an extremely high value treat-- the one thing she wants more than a cat or squirrel that she can't get to is pork-lung that she can get.
"Follow me" is much the same, I make the same movement (hand to my face) but at the same time I step back-- her natural reaction is to look at my face and hand, and take a step in the same direction (this positions her so that she's not directly facing the cat or squirrel.)
For a fear/aggression situation I'd modify the training somewhat, stay with the initial command training in a low distraction environment, and introduce new and unusual distractions to acclimate to before bringing another dog into the picture, upping the distraction level progressively and avoiding the source of the fear if at all possible until this dog could look at you on command, and follow you on command even if it started raining liver and tripe from the skies. Then I'd drop the distractions way down and start attempting to acclimate the dog to the fear source (have a friend walk another dog past from a distance.)
This is basically how I teach "Watch Me" but as that is a mouthful to say I use the word "Look". I have found this very useful for many situations not only why I taught it, to a dog aggressive dog and it worked. It is something that I feel every dog should be able to do.WendyM wrote:I have a prey obsessed dog and I use "look at me" and "follow me"
I start in a low distraction environment and hold a treat up in front of my face, and say "look at me" and then give her a treat (from my other hand, usually a much higher value treat) when I can quit using the lure I fade the treats. When she can see a cat (we're still not to where Sydney can be in the same room as a cat so we practice this in the kennel, with the cat safely outside of the kennel but where she has a direct line of sight.) I say "look at me" bring my hand up to my face, and when she looks right away (and only right away) she gets an extremely high value treat-- the one thing she wants more than a cat or squirrel that she can't get to is pork-lung that she can get.
One of my girls now at the Bridge was the perfect killing machine, she had learnt that killing and eating rabbits, pheasants, squirrels etc was good before I got her. She also jumped fences for the fun of it.
It did take a long time because I had little experience and no decent trainers round here to get help but eventually I could call her off a chase, the first time she responded I sat down and cried.
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I think this is why I've become addicted to this forum-- I don't feel so alone when I have dog troubles.Mattie wrote:It did take a long time because I had little experience and no decent trainers round here to get help but eventually I could call her off a chase, the first time she responded I sat down and cried.
Training a dog to give up chasing prey can take an agonizingly long time even for the best of trainers, job well done no matter how long it took you.